About Me

My practice involves the combining of ceramics and digital design, using the traditional plaster mould making techniques with the new techniques of 3D design. I use prototypes and digital model making to create unique moulds for slip casting. My current work focuses on casting plaster moulds from 3D printed models and layering laser cut pieces of Perspex, this process allows me to produce more detailed and precise design.

Technical

This page could be used to upload recent processes or experiments you have used. 

Clay Extruder Stencil

For my Ceramics Project I have been experimenting with scale for my light, I have to create a stencil for the clay extruder that will give me the hollow extruded outline of my light. I had to find the correct measurements for the shape to fit into a 9.4 by 9.4 cm square for the clay to go through the extruder properly. I then produced the lights pattern in solid works using the correct sized shape and produced a prototype with a 3D printer of the finished idea which is quarter the scale to the finished light design.
 















I then had to cut the pattern out of a 11 by 11 cm sheet of alluminim, I did this by drilling holes to allow the band saw blade to go through and also holes for a construction system. I need the shapes that are in the centre of my shape to make the light hollow, so I need to hold them in place using screws, I have produced an example in solidworks to explain the idea. So far I have managed to cut out the inner shapes and they only need some filing, so now theres only the outer ring to the shape to tidy up.

Bin firing at home

So not only can you make clay at home, you can also fire what you make in your garden! The method I used was bin firing, although you can pit fire in your garden too. The process I used is similar to a smokefiring but you can stop any smoke markings if you wish.


Preparation
Before I fired my pieces I wrapped the pieces in foil, copper wire and masking tape to try and reduce the heat in some parts to get different colourings. Different variants of slip thicknesses can be used to block out smoke to create patterns effectively, and powdered oxides can add colour to your pieces, but I didn’t test these processes. The work of Elizabeth Michl, Wendy Page, Inger Sodergren amd Antonia Salmon are great examples of the variety you can achieve with smoke and pit firings.
What you need:
·         Metal bin or container with lid
·         Sawdust
·         Newspaper
·         Small logs
·         Lighter fluid
·         Power drill if your bin has no holes
 
Method:
1.       Prepare your dried ceramic pieces with your foil, wire and masking tape as shown above.
2.       Prop up your bin with bricks or metal feet that come with some bins, this will stop the bin from burning your lawn or paving, and will allow more aeration from the base.
3.       If your bin has been bought without holes in you will need to use a power drill to add some aeration holes around the bin and lid which helps the bin to get hotter.
4.       Fill the bin a third of the way up with sawdust, newspaper and wood and carefully place your pieces in equally spaced apart, and then fill then bin up the rest of the way with more materials.
5.       Light the bin in several places through the holes to allow the fire to be even to create an even firing, and just top up if needed.
6.       Allow the bin to fire for around 6-8 hours and then allow the pieces to cool naturally.
7.       Then remove your work, don’t be disheartened by broken pieces as it can happen due to the type of firing, the process is always experimental and different.


 


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